Of hooks, needles and faith

If there's one festival that really intrigues me for its quirks and practices, it must be Thaipusam.

The festival commemorates the occasion when the Tamil God of War Lord Muruga defeated the evil demon Soorapadman. As a child, I used to wonder why those Tamil devotees would subject themselves to such pain with their piercings. Well, this year, I chose to take a closer look for some answers.

The route from Little India to Mustafa Centre and beyond was resplendent with brightly-lit decorations. Many of the smaller roads were blocked off to traffic to clear the path for the devotees. However, many cafes and eateries serving local Indian fare were open to cater to the late-night revelers.

Amidst the constant stream of Tamil devotees marching from the Sri Srinivasa Permal Temple in Serangoon Road, I chanced upon a group of Chinese Hindus and Buddhists participating in the march. Here, a young Chinese devotee stops to let his two Tamil helpers adjust the piercings all over his body. Imagine enduring all that pain and carrying such a heavy load on a 10 km walk.

The Chinese devotee with the piercings was accompanied by a troupe of Chinese men carrying kavadis (jars filled with milk) on their heads. Usually a family or clan activity, the womenfolk walk alongside the men as a show of solidarity and cheer them on. In our multiracial society, it is not uncommon to see Chinese Buddhists participating in Hindu activities or praying to Hindu deities.

More piercings on a devotee's body, this time in the form of hooked plums on his back. The hooks were angled in such a way that they would be securely fastened without inflicting much pain on the wearer's back. But with that many plums on his bag, I found it disbelieving that he didn't flinch at all from the pain.

The long queue towards the end-point at Tank Road due to an artificial choke-point created at the entrance to the temple to regulate the inflow and outflow of devotees. Given the recent religious tensions in Malaysia, the authorities have also stepped up security in the area.

The end-point: The Sri Thandayuthapani Temple at Tank Road, set up by the Chettiar (money-lending) community in 1859 and dedicated to the six-faced Lord Subramaniam (Lord Muruga).

The devotees poured the kavadis into the temple spring as a form of blessing, received the rites of rituals from the temple elders, and rested with their friends and family with food and drinks in a giant tent set up within the temple grounds.

Verdict of the night? It is faith that drives these devotees to take up this walk of humility and sacrifice, and numb their pain. Perhaps only persons of faith of any faith can unquestioningly understand the intense sacrifice and physical hardships displayed by these devotees.

As always, I am in awe of the power of the human spirit.